Pairings | Beef & lamb

The best wine pairings for hachis parmentier
Que boire avec hachis parmentier? Or ‘what wine should I drink with hachis parmentier?’ - the French answer to shepherd’s and cottage pie.
I’ve been down in the Languedoc this week and decided to have a crack at one of France’s favourite comfort foods, not least because we’d rashly bought a huge tray of potatoes from a local grower who turned up at the door. The distinguishing feature of hachis parmentier, which makes it irresistible to potato lovers like me, is that it has two layers of mashed potato, one on the bottom as well as one on the top.
The middle would have traditionally been filled with leftover pot-au-feu or chopped roast meat moistened with stock (I used freshly minced beef) so it has less of a gravy-ish taste than a shepherd’s or cottage pie but is still quite meaty and savoury. There’s usually quite a lot of garlic - there was in mine - and parsley.
The French of course would drink French wine - what else? - but any robust, rustic dry red would do. We drank a rather indulgent natural wine called El Niño from Casot de Mailloles in the Roussillon (the 2011 vintage) which was absolutely delicious but I’d be happy to drink a hearty red from almost anywhere in south or south-west France or an inexpensive Bordeaux come to that. You couldn’t go wrong with a Côtes du Rhône Villages, Côtes du Roussillon or Costières de Nîmes, for example.
Sometimes hachis parmentier is made with confit de canard (preserved duck) with which you could also drink the wines I’ve suggested but also a pinot noir or a Beaujolais.
For my suggestions for shepherd’s pie click here.

The best food pairings for dry oloroso sherry
The Spanish are more adventurous than us when it comes to matching sherry and food. I remember drinking a dry oloroso with roast partridge a few years back in Jerez. But what else could you pair with it?
Like amontillado dry oloroso is rich and nutty but the flavour is more of grilled than fresh nuts - dark and spicy with rich dried fruit flavours. it goes particularly well with game and dishes with light meat juices and sauces and with mature cheeses. Try:
Aged Gruyère and Comté
Mature Gouda and Mimolette
Roast partridge, pigeon and other game birds - especially served cold
Roast goose - (ditto. Oloroso is brilliant with goose leftovers)
Roast duck and red cabbage or with cinnamon pilaf as at Moro
Smoked venison
Bresaola
Beef jerky/biltong
Venison pie
Hot game pie
Game patés
Braised ox cheek and oxtail
Iberico pork cheeks
Morcilla (black pudding)
Steak sandwich
Mushroom risotto (made with dried porcini)
More food and sherry matches:
- The best food pairings for fino and manzanilla sherry
- The best food pairings for amontillado and palo cortado sherry
- The best food pairings for sweet oloroso and PX sherry
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Top pairings for dry and off-dry Alsace whites
On a recent visit to Alsace, I had the pleasure of rediscovering the region’s diverse wine offerings, from crisp Rieslings to Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. What struck me during this trip was how integral sweetness is to perfecting a food and wine pairing—a nuance that can vary greatly between a youthful bottle and a more aged vintage.
In Alsace, we focused on traditional local Alsatian cuisine, because I always prefer to eat local when I visit a wine region. This region’s wines, particularly the off-dry varieties, are famously well-suited to spicy dishes—a testament to Alsace’s global culinary influence. While the French may not always excel at Asian cuisine, Alsace wines undoubtedly do. They shine brightest when paired with bold, flavourful dishes, and I’m convinced they have untapped potential with Scandinavian fare as well.
Intriguingly, a new sweetness indicator is appearing on the back labels of many Alsace wines, offering a helpful guide to their style—an invaluable tool for any wine enthusiast looking to enhance their dining experience. But to truly appreciate these wines, one must delve deeper into the unique pairings they complement. Let’s explore some of the top pairings that make Alsace wines truly unforgettable.
Top Pairings for Alsace Riesling
Riesling is my favorite Alsace wine. While Gewürztraminer has its charm, Riesling’s versatility, especially in its drier forms, makes it a standout. Here are some of the best pairings:
In Alsace:
- Creamy sauces with fish: Particularly with zander, plaice, or sole, where a dry Riesling cuts through the richness.
- Choucroute: A traditional Alsace dish that pairs beautifully with both dry and off-dry Rieslings.
Other Great Matches:
- Scandinavian seafood dishes and smorgasbord: Dry or off-dry Riesling complements the delicate flavours.
- Japanese seafood dishes: Especially sashimi and sushi, where dry Riesling’s acidity enhances the freshness.
- Raw seafood: Think fish tartares, carpaccios, and ceviches—dry Riesling is the perfect match.
- Asian-inspired seafood: Oysters with an Asian twist, seafood cocktails, lighter Thai dishes like crab cakes and salads are all lifted by an off-dry Riesling.
- Fish dishes in general: Fish terrines, simply cooked sea bass, and seafood salads all suit a drink Riesling.
- Dry spiced chicken dishes: For example, chicken tikka and tandoor chicken are both ideal with an off-dry Riesling.
Top Pairings for Riesling Blends
One of the styles I was most impressed by on the trip, particularly Domaine Pfister’s Cuvée 8 (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürz and Muscat) and Marc Kreydenweiss’s Clos du Val d’Eleon a 50/50 blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. By and large I’d follow the pairing suggestions for dry to off-dry Riesling rather than those for Pinot Gris or Gewürz. Riesling blends, such as Domaine Pfister’s Cuvée 8, are equally impressive. These blends often include Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat, creating a symphony of flavours. Follow the pairing guidelines for dry to off-dry Riesling, keeping in mind the additional depth the blends offer.
Top Pairings for Alsace Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris from Alsace can be a bit of a wildcard—sometimes dry, sometimes rich and verging on sweet. Here’s what I recommend:
In Alsace:
- White meats in creamy sauces: Especially when mushrooms are involved, a dry Pinot Gris is sublime.
- Hot pâté en croûte: A brilliant match we enjoyed with an older Pinot Gris at Leon Boesch.
Other Great Matches:
- Smokey foods or sauces: Pinot Gris handles these with ease, particularly when off-dry.
- Richer fish like monkfish and salmon: Both dry and off-dry styles work well.
- Thai curries with coconut: The off-dry Pinot Gris balances the spice and creaminess perfectly.
Top Pairings for Alsace Gewürztraminer
Gewürztraminer is almost synonymous with spicy cuisine, particularly Chinese and Indian dishes. However, it’s important to choose the right dishes to avoid overwhelming the palate.
In Alsace:
- Foie gras: The off-dry Gewürztraminer is a classic, luxurious pairing.
- Munster cheese: Another regional specialty that matches well with both dry and off-dry versions.
Other Great Matches:
- Washed rind cheeses: Like Epoisses or Maroilles, which pair beautifully with dry or off-dry Gewürz.
- Szechuan and Korean dishes: The spicier, the better—Gewürztraminer’s sweetness cools the heat.
- Apple desserts: Off-dry Gewürz works wonderfully with apple crumble or strudel, enhancing the cinnamon and fruit flavours.
Best Pairings for Alsace Pinot Blanc
Often overlooked, Pinot Blanc is a versatile and underrated wine from Alsace. It’s an excellent all-rounder, particularly with light, simple dishes.
In Alsace:
- Onion tart or Tarte flambée: Both are classic Alsace dishes that pair effortlessly with Pinot Blanc.
- Quiche Lorraine: A perfect match, especially with a creamy filling.
Other Good Matches:
- Risottos and pastas: Especially those with creamy sauces or spring vegetables.
- Simple seafood dishes: Fish pie or fishcakes are enhanced by the smoothness of Pinot Blanc.
Best Pairings for Alsace Sylvaner
Many of the dishes that go with a dry to off-dry riesling will go with a dry Sylvaner though it generally doesn’t have Riesling’s purity and minerality. Again it’s regarded as an inexpensive wine in Alsace though the best examples e.g. from Ostertag really show the grape’s potential.
In Alsace:
- A winstub (wine bar) wine drunk with light snacks such as salads, cold meats and tarte flambée
Other Good Matches:
- You could drink it with similar dishes to a dry Riesling. It’s a good match for Westernised versions of dishes like stir fries or noodles that have an Asian influence but are not particularly spicy or authentic.
Best Pairings for Alsace Muscat
Alsace Muscat is aromatic and fresh, but not as versatile as Gewürztraminer. It’s best enjoyed as an aperitif or with a few select dishes.
In Alsace:
- White asparagus: Served with a buttery sauce or smoked ham, an off-dry Muscat shines.
- Smoked cheeses: Another excellent match for the off-dry style.
Other Good Matches:
- Fresh fruit salads: Particularly those featuring tropical fruits, where Muscat’s fruitiness complements the flavours.
If you have other favourite matches do leave a comment!
Image credit: Alberta Studios

Which whisky pairs best with haggis?
Given that whisky is generally considered the most appropriate match for haggis I thought it would be interesting to check out what Britain’s top whisky experts have to recommend for Burns Night:
Dave Broom - whisky writer
"The best, by some distance, is Talisker 10 y o. It's the pepperiness on the finish of the whisky that gives the flavour bridge, the oatmeal in the haggis gives a malty note to a whisky which doesn't usually display this, the sweetness of the dram offsets the gaminess of the haggis (adding complexity) while the smoke in the whisky adds another dimension to the whole dish. Runner up for me is Highland Park 12yo."
Charlie Maclean - author of Whisky: a liquid history, www.whiskymax.co.uk
My favourite, without a doubt, is Talisker 10 y o - because it's sweet and lightly smoky, then spicy in the finish. Pour it on (anoint) the haggis or drink alongside.
Photo by @stockcreations at shutterstock.com
Marcin Miller - whisky commentator
I like the taste of haggis and prefer it enhanced by whisky rather than overpowered by it. So I'd go for an elegant blend like Cutty Sark or perhaps BNJ (Bailie Nicol Jarvie) I'd keep the malt for drinking alongside! Similar thinking applies if you are set on using malt to pour over the haggis. I wouldn't opt for anything too phenolic and would go for Highland Park (a nice balance of peat and sweet) or, of course, The Glenrothes (classic Speyside with great structure and mouthfeel).
Neil Ridley - whisky blogger, caskstrength.net
Whisky and haggis should, in theory, be a wonderful marriage of Highland flavour but it is easy to go too far with the whisky. I used to use Laphroaig 10 yo but it was just too peaty to match and overpowered the food in my opinion.
The whisky needs to work with the following: the haggis itself, that delicious meaty gravy, earthy buttery turnips and sweet, flowery swede.I'd suggest these whiskies off the top of my head:
- Ardbeg Uigeadail- sherried and not too heavily peated - a very hearty whisky. Also some of the older bottlings from the 70's would be excellent, less peated but they are very expensive!
- Older Clynelish/Brora. These have really meaty/gamey notes which should work well.
- 2 yo Cragganmore
- Highland Park 18- very honeyed, rich and peppery but should work with the 'Neeps and Tatties' and the rich gravy.
- Karuizawa single casks- The bottlings done by No. One Drinks Co. from the 70's /1980's have that earthy, outdoor feel of wild mushrooms and forest floor freshness. Might be sacrilege to match a Japanese whisky with a Scottish national dish though!!
Gavin D Smith - www.whisky-pages.com
I am a fan of the Skye malt Talisker with haggis, but some of the bigger, sherried Speysiders also work well for me - whiskies like Aberlour and Glenfarclas and The Macallan. The sweetness provides a nice contrast with the spicy and peppery character of the dish.
Stuart Bale, assistant bar manager, Albannach, London.
The Glenlivet 18 year old. The hint of spice and slightly nutty finish works really well with the meaty and peppery flavours of the haggis.

What's the best match for a barbecue?
Should it be wine or beer - or even a cocktail? Last year I asked the Twitter community what their favourite barbecue bevvy was and this is what they came up with . . .
@HarryReginald covered all the options with his prescription:
On a hot day: bubbly, followed by bubbly and then some Chenin and a solid Pinot. Or simply cold, hoppy, beers.
There was a fair amount of support for Sparkling Shiraz
Sparkling Shiraz like Peter Lehmann Black Queen, Rockford Black, Majella - especially with chargrilled and marinated meats and ribs @nywines. @robertgiorgione @rovingsommelier agreed
And for light reds . . .
Lightly chilled Austrian Zweigelt/Blaufrankisch @robertgiorgione
Chilled Beaujolais like Brouilly and other Gamay @scandilicious @goodshoeday (if the BBQ is not too spicy @spicespoon)
Cold Valpolicella Allegrini @Lardis
Leg of lamb with juicy, chilled Loire Cab Franc @foodwinediarist
How about a nice juicy Grenache w/ bbq foods? Not too heavy for hot weather. @TheWineyard
but not much for more full-bodied reds except for @HawksmoorLondon who tipped Super Tuscan wines with chargrilled steak
A couple mentioned whites, especially with fish
Hunter Valley Semillon and oysters @SomeSomm @DanSims (not typical UK barbie fare but a great idea)
Catalan Grenache Blanc with grilled sardines and red peppers @foodwinediarist
Others went in a more aromatic direction
Hilltop Estates Cserszegi from @thewinesociety with home made piri piri BBQ chicken @LouiseHerring
Chicken brochette in the Pakistani manner with Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris @SpiceSpoon
A nice crisp chilled wine like an Alsace Riesling for me @eatlikeagirl @aforkful. @scandilicious agreed: "nice Riesling or Grüner Veltliner w/BBQ fish or prawns"
Surprisingly few went for rosé, one of my own BBQ favourites
Dry rosé like Chapel Down (with butterflied lamb) @goodshoeday - although she also mentioned Peronelles, a kir-like blush cider from Aspalls
There were other fans of cider
Ashridge Devon cider @BistroWineMan
I do like cider at a bbq - its a good gutsy match to bacon rolls which are another bbq must have! @KateWild
But far more fans of beer
Beer fizzy and cold from my shed fridge @crownbrewerstu
BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, CIDER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER, BEER @MelissaCole
What matches caramelised and charred BBQ flavours better than roasted malt flavours? Got to be beer everytime! @WBandBEER
I'm liking dark beers with BBQs at the mo - BrewDog Zeitgeist, a decent Dark Mild, a porter, all served cold @markdredge. @HawksmoorLondon suggested Porter too.
Chimay for a spicy BBQ @spicespoon and Rodenbach Grand Cru for BBQd meats @scandilicious
@Hoegaarden @goodshoeday
not a #twitmatch but a #twecipe-Young's Bitter & Ginger marinade 4 bbq'd spatchcocked poussin @jo_dring
A couple mentioned cocktails (another personal favourite, especially margaritas and rum punches)
Jugs of Bloody Marys @rovingsommelier
A remojito (fino or manzanilla topped up w soda water, mint leaves, ice and lemon) @taralstevens (love the sound of this)
and @bluedoorbakery just went for sherry
@aforkful came up with a great non-alcoholic option: "try this delicious cordial if staying off the booze"
There was even a recommendation for ‘cool water’ from @howardggoldberg (the first - and I hope not the last - #twitmatch linked to a song)
Thanks all, for the great ideas.
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